R’s Beauty: Origins “Plantscription”: A Bit of Nature, A Bit of Nurture

Retin-A, the prescription go-to for the acne-plagued, has also become the gold standard for people looking to, well, look younger. A form of vitamin A, Tretinoin (as the drug itself is called; “Retin-A” is a trade name) gradually encourages the skin to repair itself, which eventually means fewer wrinkles and discolorations.

However, as with any drug, there are side effects. Retin-A causes your skin to thin (don’t even THINK about getting an eyebrow wax—goodbye, skin), as well as render it more susceptible to the damaging UV rays of the sun (don’t even THINK about getting a tan—goodbye, unburnt skin). The treatment can also cause severe dryness, flaking, and redness, which you might agree isn’t great.

Enter Origins “Plantscription” serum, a powerful natural alternative to this mixed bag. Formulated with Anogeissus, a wound-healing, antimicrobial West African plant, “Plantscription” promises to fade wrinkles and restore “bounce” to sagging skin—without the dryness, the flakes, the photosensitivity. The company says that it takes about 4 weeks to see a change, but I’ve been using it at night and in the morning for one week and already I can see some old acne scars fading and some of that elusive “radiance” restored. The serum goes on smoothly, sinks in almost immediately, and has only the slightest hint of a lovely, grassy scent. And thank the heavens, no flakes or inflammation in sight.

When science and nature come together, it’s a beautiful thing.

Origins "Plantscription" Anti-Aging Serum

R’s Beauty: Soap & Glory’s “No Clogs Allowed” Deep Pore Detox Mask: A Welcome Winter Miracle

You know how I know it’s winter? Not by reading Facebook updates—I mean, ahem, The New York Times, I swear—reporting the first smatterings of snow along the American Northeast coast. Not by the gray pallor of the British sky, nor by the Christmas displays in every single shop window throughout the Western world. Nope, I know it’s winter because my face is peeling off.

Granted, this sounds more Halloween-y than Christmas-y. But it was beginning to look like I’d be in “costume” until New Year’s.

Until…I stumbled upon a pre-Christmas/Hanukkah miracle (you knew that was coming)! Soap & Glory’s “No Clogs Allowed” Deep Pore Detox Mask (£11) will indeed make you look like the living dead for about 4 minutes, but after you frighten everyone in the house and wash the stuff off, your skin will look as soft, smooth, and glowing as a…a…celestial angel (?). Seriously, though, it’s excellent: the white paste contains little bits of blue which, when you wet your fingers and scrub gently, heat up, melt, and turn your face a lovely shade of hypothermic. The heat is the key here—instead of just passively doing its thing, this mask opens pores to get at the gunk, and then gradually buffs it away with its scrubby action. This gets rid of those flakes of dead skin, which are only welcome on the 31st of October (unless you’re dressing up as a sexy nurse, in which case, well, good luck to ya).

 

R’s Beauty: Girl-Crush of the Day: Bobbi Brown

Bobbi Brown, who has built a multimillion-dollar company on the genius of her soft, subtle, natural-beauty-enhancing makeup, is featured in today’s Wall Street Journal. Her philosophy is that it doesn’t take loads of makeup or professional skills to make oneself look great—it takes healthy living, lots of love, and maybe just a little eyeliner.

After reading about her peppermint scent obsession, I might just try it to see if it will spur me to make my own multimillion-dollar dreams come true.

Bobbi Brown Cosmetics

Here’s the article: “Beauty Queen Bobbi Brown”

And here’s Bobbi’s blog, “Everything Bobbi”

 

 

 

R’s Beauty: Together at Last: La Roche-Posay’s “Effaclar Duo” acne treatment

What if Romeo and Juliet had cleared up that little misunderstanding, eloped, had a bunch of kids (after, like, 10 years—babies having babies is never a great plan), and lived happily ever after in the Italian suburbs? Well, the play would be pretty mediocre, but at least those two lovebirds wouldn’t have been so star-cross’d.

La Roche-Posay’s “Effaclar Duo” is that happy outcome in a 40ml tube. Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are the Romeo and Juliet of the skincare world—kept apart because their marriage would be too, well, inflammatory. La Roche-Posay has helped these two not only overcome their differences, but work together in harmony to clear pores and gently exfoliate skin without irritation or redness. It works quickly (rather like that sleeping potion), but doesn’t smell medicinal.

At £13, it’s more expensive than other acne brands, but think of it as the difference between Shakespeare and Twilight. No contest.

La Roche-Posay "Effaclar Duo": Love at first sight

R’s Beauty: Shu Uemura “Fresh Pore Clarifying Gentle Cleansing Oil”: Love Over Logic

Although a handful of ex-boyfriends might disagree, I’m a pretty logical person. So why on earth would I subject my oily skin to more oil? That’s like, “Oh, your kitchen is on fire? Throw some kerosene on it; that should help.” Or, “Oh, she’s just a friend? And a model? Sure, go have fun, you two!”

Anyway. I am fastidious about making sure that all the products I use are oil-free, from sunscreen to makeup to makeup remover. Though I had heard about the magic that is Shu Uemura’s face cleansing oils, I thought—logically—that I should stay far away.

But as all those ex-boyfriends understood, the heart has reasons that reason cannot know. So I bought Shu Uemura’s newest formulation, “Fresh Pore Clarifying Gentle Cleansing Oil” (exclusive to Liberty in London, for now), in the hopes that there was a power greater than logic. It turns out that that power comes in a pretty pink bottle: with Sakura Leaf Extract (that’s “cherry blossom”; thank you, high school Japanese) and a version of salicylic acid, this cleanser lifts not only makeup (waterproof and otherwise), but actually binds with the oil and dirt inside pores, all of which gets whisked away when you rinse.

I’ve been using “Fresh Pore Clarifying Gentle Cleansing Oil” for a week, and I’m in love. Love, I tell you! My skin is brighter, my pores look smaller, and I haven’t broken out once. My skin is soft rather than tight and overstripped, and I swear my skin isn’t as oily during the rest of the day.

Sometimes, I guess, the heart makes room for a little illogic.

“Fresh Pore Clarifying Gentle Cleansing Oil”

R’s Beauty: Grin and Juice

According to all those tantalizing cereal ads, juice is a nutritious part of a photogenically balanced breakfast. It turns out that it’s also a part of a balanced skincare routine (how’s THAT for a segue?). Think about this: the body absorbs up to 60% of what you put on it. Juice Beauty’s organic skincare products are natural, effective alternatives to all the products out there that just might be equivalent to slurping down a glassful of toxic sludge with your Grape Nuts (neither grape nor nut. Discuss).

I’ve used Juice’s Green Apple Peel, Green Apple body moisturizer with SPF, and the Green Apple SPF 15 face lotion (if one apple a day keeps the doctor away, think of what three can do! I’ll never die!!!!). The peel is brilliant, if a bit strong: it tingles intensely upon contact and my face is always red after I use it, but the day after my skin looks—dare I say—luminous. (There is a version for sensitive skin, never fear.)

The Green Apple body lotion smells fantastic; not too sweet and not at all artificial. The antioxidant vitamin C and SPF in both the body cream and the light, non-greasy face lotion are major bonuses, as I am determined never to freckle, wrinkle, or tan in any way, passage of time be damned.

When once again I alight on American shores, I am determined to get my paws on more Juice Beauty products. As the organic movement spreads throughout the world and the Midwest, it’s becoming more and more evident that you are not only what you eat, but what you slather on your largest organ (YOUR SKIN! Gah, what did you think I meant?!).

The apple of my...face.

www.juicebeauty.com

R’s Beauty: Coconut Oil: Multitasking Marvel

My mother made a keen observation recently: she noted that B. is low-maintenance but looks high-maintenance, whereas I am high-maintenance but look low-maintenance. Cheers, mum.

Well I’ve got a spanner (that’s British for “wrench”) to throw in those works. If I were stuck on a desert island (or, um, England), I’d make sure I had a hefty jar of coconut oil to see me through to my rescue, or at least through my thesis defense.

There’s not much this stuff can’t do. In addition to its professed internal health benefits, coconut oil is a beauty multitasker: I use it as a skin and nail moisturizer, a hair conditioner and gloss, and a lip balm. Its antimicrobial properties make it a great salve for minor cuts and scrapes, and it’s even purported to help control dandruff. Coconut oil is solid at room temperature but melts easily upon contact, and its scent is subtle as—you guessed it—a tropical breeze.

See, mom? Sounds pretty low-maintenance to me.

R’s Beauty: Magic Mushrooms

There’s a fungus among us! Soap & Glory’s “The Fab Pore™ Facial Peel,” a thick, kaolin-based white mask dotted with blue scrubby beads, contains the extract of the fomes officinalis ‘shroom, which, in my experience of topical mushrooms, is rather brilliant at fading discolorations and tightening pores. Neutrogena used to make a facial peel that also contained mycological goodness, but it’s been discontinued and I curse them daily. Thank heavens I found S&G’s peel, as my post-acne blotches need a chemical kick-in-the-rear to shape up and ship out. I’ve been using the peel twice a week for a few weeks now, and I can see a marked (or perhaps “un-marked”) difference each time. I may even step it up and apply more often.

The deliciously retro-looking Soap & Glory, like its upmarket older sister, Bliss, has distinguished itself through cheeky marketing and clever taglines, which tend to turn your bathroom shelf into a kind of witty Greek chorus. Thankfully, it’s not all sound and fury, signifying nothing: these are excellent products that do what they say they’ll do. Boots stocks S&G products, and Sephora in the States has just taken S&G on board (oh, how I miss you, Sephora!).

Bonus points if you slap on “The Fab Pore™” while making a mushroom risotto.

http://www.soapandglory.com/uk/

B’s Beauty: Benefit’s “Erase Paste”: Gone with the Wind (well, actually, it’s just ’cause of the paste)

“Ch-ch-ch-changin’”… That’s my anthem (or would be if I could carry a tune) for what happens to me throughout the day. I’m not talking about a Juno-like “food baby” at lunch or my 4pm Diet Coke bloat (yes, the label says ”no calories,” but no, there’s really nothing good about it, really, truly). Over the course of the day, every day, my skin changes dramatically. As does, sadly, the placement of my makeup. I’ve been graced with fairly good skin throughout my life. It’s olive-coloured (or, err, a “burnt-sienna” if I’ve been a tad overzealous with the fake tan spray) and generally clear, but it’s not matte, and it certainly doesn’t look like the girls’ in a Prada campaign. OK, yes, I am familiar with airbrushing, but still, me and them? One of these things is not like the other. I’m uneven—I’m not a Caribbean road after the rainy season, but I’ve generally got red (or black, depending on the day) circles under my eyes, a red blotch or two (“spots” for the Brits, “zits” for the Americans), and just plain and simple patchiness. I use a liquid foundation and powder each morning (more on that in a later post), but before I leave work in the evening I always need a touch-up. Girls who say they don’t are either lying or they’re lying.

Benefit’s “Erase Paste” comes in a tiny pink jar that looks like it should be part of an art kit belonging to your 6-year-old cousin who is going through her princess phase. The unguent within looks like more of an “erase solid” than a paste. It comes in three shades (literally 1, 2, and….wait for it…3). I use #3. One of the biggest challenges I face when looking for a product for touch-ups is colour. The Boots brand makeup wand with witch hazel was too light, as was Chanel’s and Estee Lauder’s (Goldilocks ain’ t got nothin’ on me). The “Erase Paste” is a perfect color match, and although it’s thick it blends beautifully and covers well (juuuuuust right). My only concern is that due to the shape of the container, I worry that when supplies are getting low I’ll be like a bear in a honey jar (there are so many bears in this post…paging Dr. Freud!). According to the write-up on Benefit’s website, “Erase Paste” comes with a mini spatula, but I’ve managed to lose that already. I’ve also used Benefit’s “Boi-ing” concealer, which is slightly cheaper (£16.50 vs £19.50 for “Erase Paste”), but without a doubt that £3 gets you a lot: the coverage is far superior and “Boi-ing” has an unimpressive greasy texture.

We all have things we’d like to erase in our lives (Grade 8: why, oh why?!), and now finally you can cross a couple of them off your list.

R’s Beauty: Indiana Jones and the Ongoing Quest for Sunscreen

OK, Indiana Jones. You’re great at finding Holy Grails and glowing rocks and even crystal skulls (what the what?), but now I’ve got a serious challenge for you. Find me the perfect sunblock (or “sun cream” as they call it in the UK), and you will have all the riches in the land. And tenure. And I’ll marry you. I would marry you anyway:

If only this were me...I'm blonde!

Oh, you’re too busy outwitting sinister emperors and running from cannibalistic natives? (The 1980s: not quite as racially sensitive as they could have been.) Fine. Whatevs. I’ll look for the Holy Grail of Sunscreens on my own (see what I did there?!). Seeing as you frequent jungle/desert locales, you should be wearing sunscreen, mister.

Actually, surveying the drugstore shelves and/or department store beauty counters IS a bit like trying to choose…“wisely”…from among all the imitators out there. While choosing…“poorly”…may not doom you to quite such rapid aging (that part of the film is AWESOME), it will, over time, not do your visage any favors. The ideal sunscreen, like the Holy Grail (the “H.G.”), should be relatively simple: it should have both UVA and UVB protection, and be oil-free and noncomedogenic. Sure, skincare companies, you can throw in a bunch of innovative anti-agers and maybe some cosmetic touches like a tint or an oil-absorber. That would be great. As you may recall, even the inside of the H.G. was a bit shiny. But when choosing from among the array, it’s best not to become dazzled by all the sparkly, trendy stuff out there; as Indiana has taught us, all that glitters may not be gold.

I’ve been experimenting with the newly-reformulated JĀSÖN Facial Natural Sunblock SPF 20 for about a week, and I’m diggin’ it (see what I did THERE?! Because Indiana Jones is an archaeologist and he digs things…never mind). It contains Green Tea and Grape Seed extracts, which are tried-and-true antioxidants, and it goes on light and sheer, unlike other natural sunscreens. My skin is pretty oily, so about an hour after applying the sunblock I have to blot my face, but that’s par for the course. It creates a nice base for foundation, and doesn’t feel sticky. I like JĀSÖN’s products in general, so it’s great to see them tinkering so closely with a facial sunscreen.

I don’t know if I’ll ever find a H.G. of sunblocks, but I’ll continue to make Leaps of Faith:

JĀSÖN Facial Natural Sunblock SPF 20:

http://www.jason-natural.com/products/sunblock.php

http://www.jasonnaturalcare.co.uk/