R’s Beauty: Shu Uemura “Fresh Pore Clarifying Gentle Cleansing Oil”: Love Over Logic

Although a handful of ex-boyfriends might disagree, I’m a pretty logical person. So why on earth would I subject my oily skin to more oil? That’s like, “Oh, your kitchen is on fire? Throw some kerosene on it; that should help.” Or, “Oh, she’s just a friend? And a model? Sure, go have fun, you two!”

Anyway. I am fastidious about making sure that all the products I use are oil-free, from sunscreen to makeup to makeup remover. Though I had heard about the magic that is Shu Uemura’s face cleansing oils, I thought—logically—that I should stay far away.

But as all those ex-boyfriends understood, the heart has reasons that reason cannot know. So I bought Shu Uemura’s newest formulation, “Fresh Pore Clarifying Gentle Cleansing Oil” (exclusive to Liberty in London, for now), in the hopes that there was a power greater than logic. It turns out that that power comes in a pretty pink bottle: with Sakura Leaf Extract (that’s “cherry blossom”; thank you, high school Japanese) and a version of salicylic acid, this cleanser lifts not only makeup (waterproof and otherwise), but actually binds with the oil and dirt inside pores, all of which gets whisked away when you rinse.

I’ve been using “Fresh Pore Clarifying Gentle Cleansing Oil” for a week, and I’m in love. Love, I tell you! My skin is brighter, my pores look smaller, and I haven’t broken out once. My skin is soft rather than tight and overstripped, and I swear my skin isn’t as oily during the rest of the day.

Sometimes, I guess, the heart makes room for a little illogic.

“Fresh Pore Clarifying Gentle Cleansing Oil”

R’s Beauty: Grin and Juice

According to all those tantalizing cereal ads, juice is a nutritious part of a photogenically balanced breakfast. It turns out that it’s also a part of a balanced skincare routine (how’s THAT for a segue?). Think about this: the body absorbs up to 60% of what you put on it. Juice Beauty’s organic skincare products are natural, effective alternatives to all the products out there that just might be equivalent to slurping down a glassful of toxic sludge with your Grape Nuts (neither grape nor nut. Discuss).

I’ve used Juice’s Green Apple Peel, Green Apple body moisturizer with SPF, and the Green Apple SPF 15 face lotion (if one apple a day keeps the doctor away, think of what three can do! I’ll never die!!!!). The peel is brilliant, if a bit strong: it tingles intensely upon contact and my face is always red after I use it, but the day after my skin looks—dare I say—luminous. (There is a version for sensitive skin, never fear.)

The Green Apple body lotion smells fantastic; not too sweet and not at all artificial. The antioxidant vitamin C and SPF in both the body cream and the light, non-greasy face lotion are major bonuses, as I am determined never to freckle, wrinkle, or tan in any way, passage of time be damned.

When once again I alight on American shores, I am determined to get my paws on more Juice Beauty products. As the organic movement spreads throughout the world and the Midwest, it’s becoming more and more evident that you are not only what you eat, but what you slather on your largest organ (YOUR SKIN! Gah, what did you think I meant?!).

The apple of my...face.

www.juicebeauty.com

B’s Beauty: My deep, dark secret

I’ve got a secret. The only problem is that I’m not terribly good at keeping it and I’ll tell it to anyone, as long as they ask the magic question (cue drum roll please!): how do you stay so brown? Well, for starters, my mum’s half Indian, so that doesn’t hurt, but it’s more complex than that. OK, not really, the truth is actually very simple: it’s fake. I use fake tan spray. Boots Soltan Self Tan spray, specifically. That’s the only one I use and I apply it post-shower every couple of days.

While post-shower and post-moisturising (just make sure the moisturiser has completely set in) is the best time to use the spray (you’re fresh, clean and exfoliated), beware of using it post-shave: it may sting slightly. Regardless, this spray is the best. I have tried creams and mousses and tinted moisturisers and brand upon brand upon brand: Make Believe (£20-30), St. Tropez (£20-25), L’Oreal (£10-15), Garnier (£10-15)…you name it. And I have experienced streaks and spots and smells. Ahh did I mention the smell? Most fake tanners smell of fermenting socks, but the Soltan spray smells faintly of candy. It’s a keeper. It dries quickly, goes on evenly, and gives a noticeable yet natural colour.

What about the whole two-toned face issue? Another deep, dark secret: I just close my eyes and spritz a bit on my face. I always do this in the morning (not post-shower), as I do worry about how healthy it is to have it seeping into my face all night long.

Boots Soltan Self Tan Spray (£8.99)

Boots Soltan Self-Tan Dry Mist Spray

 

B’s Beauty: Love It / Loathe It: Cleansing Facial Wipes

Can you love and loathe very similar things? The answer must be “yes,” because I love makeup wipes, but I LOATHE the Boots Essential version. In general, I am a big fan of Boots and the Boots brand in all its many incarnations. But this is one product they haven’t quite mastered.

Let me start by saying that face wipes should never be a replacement for washing your face, but they can be a great first step. I can get rid of all my makeup and that first layer of dirt (hello, London Underground).

I tried many times to convince myself that the Boots Essential Cleansing Wipes are going to do the trick, but they always disappoint. They always seem to be on offer (3 for 2 or buy one, get one free), which is usually great, but in this case I think it might be time to step back and ask myself why these things are always on offer? Why does Boots want to keep ‘em moving?

Bottom line: these wipes are far too dry. This means that you rub your face off before you get the makeup and dirt off. It’s not a pretty sight. This is just a low quality product: they’re cheap, every way you look at them.

So what’s the alternative? I’ve tried the Simple brand wipes, which are far better but about double the price.

My favourite product for removing makeup and grime? Baby wipes. In this case, what’s good enough for a baby’s bottom is, indeed, good enough for my face. Baby wipes are gentle, scent-free, soft on the skin, and pack plenty of moisture and cleansing power.

One hitch: if you’re like me and don’t happen to have a baby kicking around your flat, it can be slightly embarrassing to have a huge box plunked next to your sink (baby wipes are never discreet). The solution? Find a good drawer, I suppose. Or decoupage the hell outta that box.

 

B’s Beauty: Sugar Rosé by Fresh: It ain’t easy being an all-rounder

I have used countless different lip balms, lip glosses, and lipsticks (no doubt well over 100), and without question Sugar Rosé by Fresh is my all-around favorite. What sets this product apart is its texture: it feels substantial without being too thick, it’s moist but neither sticky nor waxy, and has SPF 15. It gives the lips a subtle “bitten” colour that’s perfect for a weekend light-makeup look, but it still has enough color to stand its ground if you’re after a more dramatic night-time look. It’s an easy A.

Frustratingly, Fresh products can be tricky to find in the UK. There is, however, a standalone shop on 92 Marylebone High Street, W1U 4RD.

If Rosé isn’t for you, Fresh has recently added Honey (a nude) and Passion (a deeper red) to the range.

Sugar Rosé by Fresh

http://www.fresh.com/makeup/lip-care/sugar-rose-tinted-lip-treatment-spf-15

B’s Beauty: Nip + Fab Sheer Make-up “Fix”: Yeah Right

Let’s get right to it: Nip + Fab “Sheer Make-up Fix,” despite its claims, is more flub than fix.

I’d read about Nip + Fab in a couple of places, but I’d never noticed the line at Boots. The product itself sounded intriguing: it says it’s “A multi-tasking wonder gel. This unique formula instantly evens skin tone texture whilst reducing the appearance of fine lines. Wear Sheer Make-Up Fix alone for a natural even look or under make-up as a smoothing primer.” Sounds good, right? I have combination skin and my makeup often slides around over the course of the day, so something to keep it all in place would be, well, fab.

Oh, how the potentially-mighty fall: in reality, Sheer Make-up Fix a goopy opaque gel that sets in a sticky layer on your face. It’s beyond me how in any way, shape, or form this product could purport to be a makeup replacement. My complexion before and after application was virtually identical.  You’ll have to do better than that, Nip + Fab.

Nip Fab Sheer Make-up Fix

http://www.nipandfab.com/shop/Face/Sheer-Make-Up-Fix/21

 

B’s Beauty: Love It / Loathe It

Dichotomies are useful sometimes. Like in this new series! And in Derridean deconstruction. But that’s another post.

Over the next few days I’m going to run through my favorite products, as well as delineating a toxic/steer clear zone. Some products just ain’t what they say they are!

LOVE IT:

Q-tips (or “cotton buds” as they’re called in England). I am literally obsessed with Q-tips. I keep them in my purse, in my makeup bag, in my desk, if I’m going out of town for one day or one month—I have Q-tips. They can do anything! They’re the simplest and cleanest way to freshen up. I often get a dull shadow of mascara and/or eyeliner under my eyes as the day wears on (I’m an eye rubber. Hey, that could have been “rubber,” OK?). Just a simple swipe can give the illusion that I’ve put on a fresh face of makeup. It’s even better if you have some concealer (such as Benefit’s “Erase Paste“) to use afterwards. Q-tips can get water out of your ears (which drives me crazy)! And although my mother always told me you shouldn’t put anything smaller than your elbow in your ear, I’m sure you’ll be careful (or else I’ll tell my mom!). Q-tips are also great for tons of non-makeup-related functions, such as cleaning your keyboard after it is mysteriously full of food after you insist on eating three meals a day over it. The ketchup of beauty products, Q-tips go with everything.

Q-tips

LOATHE IT:

Non-quilted Cotton pad! ARGH! Always go for the textured ones. They have more clout when removing dirt and makeup as they are far more substantial. I have often found that the plain cotton pads—especially if you’re trying to remove stubborn mascara—rip or stretch or fuzz, or even worse, all three. When using non-ridged pads with toner I find that the slightest error in judgment results in the world’s soggiest cotton pad: sopping, drowned and useless.

Cotton beauty pads

R’s Beauty: Magic Mushrooms

There’s a fungus among us! Soap & Glory’s “The Fab Pore™ Facial Peel,” a thick, kaolin-based white mask dotted with blue scrubby beads, contains the extract of the fomes officinalis ‘shroom, which, in my experience of topical mushrooms, is rather brilliant at fading discolorations and tightening pores. Neutrogena used to make a facial peel that also contained mycological goodness, but it’s been discontinued and I curse them daily. Thank heavens I found S&G’s peel, as my post-acne blotches need a chemical kick-in-the-rear to shape up and ship out. I’ve been using the peel twice a week for a few weeks now, and I can see a marked (or perhaps “un-marked”) difference each time. I may even step it up and apply more often.

The deliciously retro-looking Soap & Glory, like its upmarket older sister, Bliss, has distinguished itself through cheeky marketing and clever taglines, which tend to turn your bathroom shelf into a kind of witty Greek chorus. Thankfully, it’s not all sound and fury, signifying nothing: these are excellent products that do what they say they’ll do. Boots stocks S&G products, and Sephora in the States has just taken S&G on board (oh, how I miss you, Sephora!).

Bonus points if you slap on “The Fab Pore™” while making a mushroom risotto.

http://www.soapandglory.com/uk/

B’s Beauty: Benefit’s “Erase Paste”: Gone with the Wind (well, actually, it’s just ’cause of the paste)

“Ch-ch-ch-changin’”… That’s my anthem (or would be if I could carry a tune) for what happens to me throughout the day. I’m not talking about a Juno-like “food baby” at lunch or my 4pm Diet Coke bloat (yes, the label says ”no calories,” but no, there’s really nothing good about it, really, truly). Over the course of the day, every day, my skin changes dramatically. As does, sadly, the placement of my makeup. I’ve been graced with fairly good skin throughout my life. It’s olive-coloured (or, err, a “burnt-sienna” if I’ve been a tad overzealous with the fake tan spray) and generally clear, but it’s not matte, and it certainly doesn’t look like the girls’ in a Prada campaign. OK, yes, I am familiar with airbrushing, but still, me and them? One of these things is not like the other. I’m uneven—I’m not a Caribbean road after the rainy season, but I’ve generally got red (or black, depending on the day) circles under my eyes, a red blotch or two (“spots” for the Brits, “zits” for the Americans), and just plain and simple patchiness. I use a liquid foundation and powder each morning (more on that in a later post), but before I leave work in the evening I always need a touch-up. Girls who say they don’t are either lying or they’re lying.

Benefit’s “Erase Paste” comes in a tiny pink jar that looks like it should be part of an art kit belonging to your 6-year-old cousin who is going through her princess phase. The unguent within looks like more of an “erase solid” than a paste. It comes in three shades (literally 1, 2, and….wait for it…3). I use #3. One of the biggest challenges I face when looking for a product for touch-ups is colour. The Boots brand makeup wand with witch hazel was too light, as was Chanel’s and Estee Lauder’s (Goldilocks ain’ t got nothin’ on me). The “Erase Paste” is a perfect color match, and although it’s thick it blends beautifully and covers well (juuuuuust right). My only concern is that due to the shape of the container, I worry that when supplies are getting low I’ll be like a bear in a honey jar (there are so many bears in this post…paging Dr. Freud!). According to the write-up on Benefit’s website, “Erase Paste” comes with a mini spatula, but I’ve managed to lose that already. I’ve also used Benefit’s “Boi-ing” concealer, which is slightly cheaper (£16.50 vs £19.50 for “Erase Paste”), but without a doubt that £3 gets you a lot: the coverage is far superior and “Boi-ing” has an unimpressive greasy texture.

We all have things we’d like to erase in our lives (Grade 8: why, oh why?!), and now finally you can cross a couple of them off your list.

R’s Beauty: Indiana Jones and the Ongoing Quest for Sunscreen

OK, Indiana Jones. You’re great at finding Holy Grails and glowing rocks and even crystal skulls (what the what?), but now I’ve got a serious challenge for you. Find me the perfect sunblock (or “sun cream” as they call it in the UK), and you will have all the riches in the land. And tenure. And I’ll marry you. I would marry you anyway:

If only this were me...I'm blonde!

Oh, you’re too busy outwitting sinister emperors and running from cannibalistic natives? (The 1980s: not quite as racially sensitive as they could have been.) Fine. Whatevs. I’ll look for the Holy Grail of Sunscreens on my own (see what I did there?!). Seeing as you frequent jungle/desert locales, you should be wearing sunscreen, mister.

Actually, surveying the drugstore shelves and/or department store beauty counters IS a bit like trying to choose…“wisely”…from among all the imitators out there. While choosing…“poorly”…may not doom you to quite such rapid aging (that part of the film is AWESOME), it will, over time, not do your visage any favors. The ideal sunscreen, like the Holy Grail (the “H.G.”), should be relatively simple: it should have both UVA and UVB protection, and be oil-free and noncomedogenic. Sure, skincare companies, you can throw in a bunch of innovative anti-agers and maybe some cosmetic touches like a tint or an oil-absorber. That would be great. As you may recall, even the inside of the H.G. was a bit shiny. But when choosing from among the array, it’s best not to become dazzled by all the sparkly, trendy stuff out there; as Indiana has taught us, all that glitters may not be gold.

I’ve been experimenting with the newly-reformulated JĀSÖN Facial Natural Sunblock SPF 20 for about a week, and I’m diggin’ it (see what I did THERE?! Because Indiana Jones is an archaeologist and he digs things…never mind). It contains Green Tea and Grape Seed extracts, which are tried-and-true antioxidants, and it goes on light and sheer, unlike other natural sunscreens. My skin is pretty oily, so about an hour after applying the sunblock I have to blot my face, but that’s par for the course. It creates a nice base for foundation, and doesn’t feel sticky. I like JĀSÖN’s products in general, so it’s great to see them tinkering so closely with a facial sunscreen.

I don’t know if I’ll ever find a H.G. of sunblocks, but I’ll continue to make Leaps of Faith:

JĀSÖN Facial Natural Sunblock SPF 20:

http://www.jason-natural.com/products/sunblock.php

http://www.jasonnaturalcare.co.uk/